Rhodes
July 24th, 2008 | by admin |I think that today was our first taste of the Greece I know from my studies and which I have thought about many times. Galaxy (our cruise ship) actually docked in town today instead of anchoring mid-bay and tendering us to shore. I much prefer it when they can do this because it makes it easier to come and go at will. Of course, we rarely do, considering each port city is so stock full of stuff to do. Today was no different.
We arrived in Rhodes, Greece at approximately 9am. Unfortunately we missed the Colossus by a couple thousand years. Bummer. Well, at least there was still the city and the acropolis to see! We started off by walking through and around the harbor into the old city. The old city of Rhodes is surrounded by a fortified wall in order to help fight off seaborn invaders. According to an inscription I read in one of the museums, the original Rhodeian wall was a meager thing built hastily. But after an attack in the 3rd century B.C. (?) in which the original wall was little to no help, the Rhodesians rebuilt it quite impressively, after which point it was hailed as one of the most remarkable fortress walls in the Mediterranean region. Of course, this doesn’t mean they never got sacked again. To the contrary, Rhodes fell again to the Goths in 269 A.D. and was then brought under the influence of the Byzantine empire 28 years later. It was alternately ruled by Crusaders, Ottoman Turks, and Italians over the centuries until about 1309 A.D. It was at this point that the Knights of the Order of St. John took the city and led it into it’s “renaissance”. Apparently the Knights got lucky 3 years later when the Pope outlawed the Templars and gave all their money to the Knights of St. John. This gave them the means to fortify Rhodes. It was only after World War II that the country of Greece gained rulership over the island. [Mostly cited from Celebrity's "Port Explorer" notes]
Our first stop upon entering the Old City and wandering the streets a bit was to visit “The Hospital of the Knights” which is now host to the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes. It contains a large collection of pottery and sculpture from the ancient times, including some famous statues of Aphrodite (which my Dad kept pronouncing Afroditty). I got pictures of the smaller of the two famous ones, but unfortunately there was a set of huge tour groups in the way which kept me from getting close enough to take a good shot of the larger of the two. There were also huge cannon balls in the courtyard which were apparently leftover from the wars of the past and a great deal of recovered pottery, weapons and statuary scattered throughout the entire place.
Our next stop was the Palace of the Grand Masters (also known as the Palace of the Knights of St. John). This place is freaking giant. It contains over 300 rooms and a massive courtyard and contains another huge collection of pottery, sculpture and artifacts. But the best part about this place was the building itself. It was clearly a major military center and a home to many knights and their followers. Much of the indoor areas are studded wall and floor with mosaics and artwork. There is also a great deal of intricate woodwork. Many of the rooms had lovely chairs and tables constructed of very impressive mahogany and other hard woods. Unfortunately I didn’t get as many photos of it as I would like because they were prohibited in the majority of the “museum”. I’m not sure why. It could be because of the safety of the artifacts (flash light can be degrading to some types of artwork), or just because they don’t want people taking away photos that might decrease their revenue.
We wanted to visit the Mosque of Suleyman (Suleiman?), but unfortunately it is closed to the public. It is opposite the Palace of the Grand Masters and was constructed after Sultan Suleyman the “Magnificent” captured Rhodes in approximately 1522. So instead we headed to lunch at a café that didn’t have a roof but rather a latticework covered in leafy vines. We had a “traditional” Greek lunch. Which is to say that I had a plate of gyros (no pita, just the contents and a fork) and my family all had pizza. *Shakes head in shame…*. I also had some Greek ouzo. For those who haven’t heard of it, ouzo is the traditional Greek drink, like vodka to Russians and wine to Italians. It’s nearly 100 proof (50% alcohol). *choke* <strained voice> Good stuff… </strained voice>.
I actually skipped one of the places we visited. Technically, the first place we visited was the Temple of Aphrodite. I forgot about it simply because it is almost entirely gone. What little is left is simply ruins, and resembles nothing so much as a temple. Supposedly it was completed in the third century B.C. but there isn’t much left to distinguish such by.
Finally, we took a long walk (a very, very long walk uphill) to visit the acropolis of Rhodes which contains the Temple of Apollo as well as a stadium. All that is left of the temple is three columns with a cross beam, but even that was sufficient to demonstrate the incredible majesty that was once the ancient Greek world. Down the hill from the temple is an ancient stadium which is mostly intact. It includes a small amphitheater (which we have a picture of me “orating” in) ((get your mind out of the gutter)), and a large chariot (I think…) racing track. We got a great picture of my brother doing a one-handed hand stand in the amphitheater.
After this last we trekked back downhill from the acropolis (which took quite a while, though not as long as to get up there) and caught a cab at the edge of the old city to take us back to the cruise ship. That’s pretty much it. We just relaxed after that.
I know this is late, but for a day we had a really slow internet connection and then I was just having too much fun to post anything.
Peace out.
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